Hilsa: its health benefits and 33 ways to cook it

When the monsoon arrives, silver hilsa flash across market stalls and kitchens reach for mustard, yoghurt and banana leaves. Hilsa (ilish) is the national fish of Bangladesh, recognised as a geographical indication product in 2017, and roughly a tenth of national fish output comes from it. Here are its benefits and 33 recipes.

Its omega-3 fatty acids, a beneficial fat, lower heart-disease risk, help control blood pressure, cholesterol and circulation, sharpen the brain and support mental health.

Omega-3 and vitamin E keep skin smooth and curb hair loss; vitamins D and A and selenium strengthen immunity; calcium and phosphorus build bones and teeth. It eases arthritis and joint pain, and its protein, iron and vitamins fill nutritional gaps.

It is best in the peak season, July to October. Each recipe lists ingredients, then method (tsp: teaspoon; tbsp: tablespoon).

6 to 8 pieces of large hilsa, 5 to 6 chopped green chillies, 3 tbsp mustard oil, salt, a little turmeric, ½ cup of finely chopped onion, 1 tbsp lime juice, 6 bottle-gourd leaves, ½ kg of rice.

Soak washed rice half an hour. Marinate fish in everything but leaves 30 minutes; wrap each piece in a leaf. Cook rice in 1½ times its volume of boiling water; when nearly done, bury parcels in it and leave covered 10 minutes on low heat. Serve in leaves.

1 kg hilsa, 1 tsp each garlic, mustard and dried-chilli paste, whole panch phoron and turmeric, ½ tsp ground coriander, ½ cup mustard oil, 1 tbsp tamarind extract, salt, water as needed, 1 tsp sugar.

Fry fish rubbed with turmeric and salt; lift out. In that oil add panch phoron and pastes and cook down with a little water. Add 1.5 cups water, fish and tamarind; cook 10 minutes. Add sugar and finish when thick.

8 pieces hilsa, 2 tbsp onion paste, 1 tsp each poppy-seed, garlic and green-chilli paste, turmeric and chilli powder, salt, 4 to 5 whole green chillies, 1 tsp ghee, ½ cup cooking oil, a little sugar, water.

Rub fish with turmeric and salt. Cook pastes and powders in oil, add a cup of water and fish, cover 10 minutes. Add chillies, cover 5 more minutes, then drizzle ghee.

1 kg hilsa, 1 cup chopped onion, 2 tbsp onion paste, 1 tbsp mustard paste, 1 tsp each green-chilli paste, turmeric and chilli powder, salt, ½ cup mustard oil, a little sugar, 6 whole green chillies, ½ cup water.

Rest fish 10 minutes in turmeric and salt. Mix in everything else, top with oil and water, cover and cook 20 minutes on medium heat until thick.

2 cups small-cut hilsa, 5 to 6 lime leaves, 1 cup chopped onion, 5 to 6 slit green chillies, ½ tsp turmeric, 1 tsp chilli powder, ½ tsp ground cumin, ½ cup oil, salt, 1 tbsp lime juice, 1 tsp sugar, 2 tbsp tomato sauce.

Fry onion, cook down spices, add tomato sauce, fry, then add a cup of water. When reduced, add sugar, lime juice, chillies and lime leaves.

1 medium hilsa, ¼ cup yoghurt, 2 cups coconut milk, 1 tsp ginger paste, ½ tsp cumin paste, 1 tbsp each onion, almond and raisin paste, ½ tsp turmeric, 1 tsp chilli powder, 4 to 5 slit green chillies, 1 cup chopped onion, ¼ cup fried onion, salt, 2 tsp sugar, oil.

Fry onion and cook down spices. Add fish, yoghurt and salt, fry briefly, pour in coconut milk. When thick, add sugar and chillies, then finish with fried onion.

6 pieces hilsa, 1 tbsp each mustard and poppy-seed paste, 2 tsp red-chilli paste, 1 tsp turmeric, ½ cup chopped onion, 5 to 6 slit green chillies, salt, 4 tbsp mustard oil.

Marinate fish in everything an hour. Arrange in a bowl with ½ cup of water, cover tightly and steam over a little water in a pot or pressure cooker on low heat half an hour.

A 1 kg hilsa cut into six pieces without head or tail, ½ cup mustard oil, 2 sliced onions, 1 tbsp ground coriander, ½ tbsp dried-chilli powder, 1 tbsp mustard paste, 5 to 6 green chillies, 1 cup yoghurt, salt.

Salt fish. Fry onion in mustard oil, add salt, chilli and coriander, stir until oil separates. Add fish and mustard paste; after a while add chillies and yoghurt and finish in 8 to 10 minutes.

1 whole hilsa, 1 tsp chilli powder, 1 tbsp flour, 1 tbsp cornflour, 1 tbsp lime juice, oil for frying, salt.

Slit fish lengthways, rub with salt, chilli and lime juice and rest an hour. Coat both sides with mixed flours and deep-fry until greyish.

500 g raw pumpkin, 2 hilsa roes, 2 onions, salt, 1 bay leaf, fresh red chillies, ½ tsp turmeric for colour.

Cube pumpkin. Fry onion lightly, add pumpkin, salt and bay leaf; no other spice, and no lid, or colour spoils. When tender, add roe and turmeric and stir gently; when half cooked, add chillies and cook 5 minutes.

5 to 6 pieces hilsa, ½ cup chopped onion, 1 tsp ginger paste, ½ cup onion paste, 1 bay leaf, 2 cardamoms, 2 cinnamon sticks, 1½ tsp chilli powder, ½ cup yoghurt, 8 to 10 green chillies, 1 tbsp nut paste, 1 tsp raisins, 1 tbsp ghee, 1 tbsp sugar, salt, oil.

Marinate fish an hour in pastes, chilli, yoghurt and salt. Brown onion in oil and ghee, add fish, cardamom, cinnamon and bay leaf, cook 10 minutes. When oil rises, add sugar and raisins; 5 minutes more.

6 pieces hilsa, 2 tbsp black mustard, 1 tbsp white mustard, ½ cup grated coconut, ¼ cup yoghurt, 8 green chillies, 3 tbsp mustard oil, 2 tsp turmeric, salt, water, banana leaf.

Rub fish with turmeric and salt. Blend both mustards, 4 chillies, salt and water; separately blend coconut, yoghurt, 4 chillies and water. Soak fish 30 minutes in combined thick paste. Scald, cut and lightly toast banana leaf. Layer 2 tsp paste, fish, 2 tsp paste and two chillies on each leaf; fold tight. Cook covered in mustard oil in a hot pan, 6 minutes a side.

3 to 4 back or tail pieces of hilsa, ½ cup chopped onion, 1 tbsp chopped coriander leaves, 4 to 5 dried chillies, ½ tsp turmeric, salt, mustard oil for frying.

Fry fish rubbed with turmeric and salt; fry chillies crisp. Bone cooled fish and mash with onion, chillies, coriander and salt.

6 round steaks of hilsa, salt and dried-chilli powder, a little turmeric, 2 to 3 fried dried chillies to serve, ½ cup mustard oil.

Coat drained fish with seasoning, cover 10 minutes, then fry slowly in mustard oil until crisp. Serve on hot rice with fried chillies and frying oil.

6 to 8 pieces hilsa, ½ tsp chilli powder, 1 tsp each tomato sauce, vinegar and ginger paste, 2 tbsp onion paste, ¾ cup oil, salt, charcoal and foil, butter to finish.

Coat fish with everything, rest 20 to 30 minutes, then keep on low heat an hour until slightly charred. Wrap in foil in a dish, set red-hot coals on top, spread butter over them and remove coal and foil after a few minutes.

6 large pieces from a big hilsa (round steaks look best), 2 tbsp biryani masala of any brand, ½ tsp sugar, 3 measuring cups polao rice (chinigura is best), ½ cup each fried onion and chopped onion, ⅓ cup onion paste, ½ tsp each ginger and garlic paste, chilli powder, 5 to 6 green chillies, salt, ½ cup beaten yoghurt, a little saffron soaked in milk, 6 cups milk, 10 to 12 raisins, ⅓ cup soybean oil, ¼ cup ghee, ¼ cup water for the masala.

Rest fish 10 minutes in salt and yoghurt. Cook onion, pastes, 1 tbsp masala and chilli down with splashes of water; when oil rises, cook fish 5 minutes a side on low heat, covered; lift out. Fry drained rice in ghee with salt, add sugar, remaining masala and milk; at boil cover 10 minutes. Remove half, layer fried onion and fish, replace rice, add saffron and raisins, dum 20 minutes.

2 roes from large hilsa, salt and chilli powder, ½ tsp ground cumin, 2 tsp lime juice, ½ tsp turmeric, 2 fried dried chillies to serve, ½ cup soybean oil.

Coat roe with spices, salt and lime juice, cover 20 minutes, then fry slowly on low heat. Serve on hot rice with fried chillies, ideally with green-mango lentils.

4 pieces hilsa, 1 bay leaf, 1 tsp onion pieces, salt, 2 tsp turmeric, 3 tbsp mustard oil, 5 green chillies.

Rest fish 15 minutes in salt and turmeric, fry lightly and add chillies. Add a cup of water with a pinch of turmeric plus ½ cup more, salt, and cook 5 minutes. Drizzle 1 tbsp mustard oil to finish.

8 pieces hilsa, 3 cups orange juice, 2 tbsp onion paste, salt, ½ tsp sugar, ½ tsp chilli powder, a little turmeric, ¼ cup oil, 1 tbsp grated orange zest.

Rest fish 15 minutes in salt, turmeric and chilli; fry lightly and lift out. Fry spices in that oil, boil with juice and zest, add fish and cook covered on low heat 15 to 20 minutes.

500 g polao rice, 12 middle pieces from two large hilsa, 1 tsp ginger paste, ½ tsp garlic paste, 1 cup yoghurt, salt, 2 cinnamon sticks, 4 cardamoms, ¾ cup onion paste, ½ cup sliced onion, 4 cups water, 10 green chillies, 1 tsp sugar, ½ cup oil.

Marinate fish 15 minutes in ginger, garlic, salt and yoghurt. Fry cinnamon and cardamom, cook down onion paste, add fish and cook covered 20 minutes on low heat, turning once with sugar and 4 chillies; lift out when oil rises. Fry sliced onion golden in 2 tbsp oil and remove; fry rice and fish masala in that oil, add water and salt, cover. When dry, 15 minutes on low heat. Layer fish in rice, cover 10 minutes, top with fried onion.

1 whole hilsa, 1 tbsp ground black pepper, ½ cup chopped onion, 1 tbsp chopped green chilli, 2 tbsp tomato sauce, 1 cup mashed potato, 2 tbsp chopped coriander, 2 chopped garlic cloves, 1 tbsp lime juice, salt, ½ cup oil, ½ cup fried onion, ¼ tsp grated lime zest, 1 cup toast crumbs; a little turmeric and chilli for the head and tail.

Season and lightly fry head and tail. Poach rest with salt, lime juice and a little water; bone it. Fry garlic and onion, add fish, then potato, pepper, chilli, salt and sauce; cook and cool. Brown crumbs in a little oil. Fold coriander, zest and fried onion into mince, shape it into a fish between head and tail, press on crumbs, mark scales with a spoon.

2 to 4 pieces salted hilsa, ½ cup chopped onion, ½ tsp turmeric, 1 tsp chilli powder, oil.

Pound fish and mix with everything but oil. Cook down in hot oil, add a little water, finish when oil rises.

6 pieces hilsa, 1 tsp mustard paste, ½ cup chopped onion, half a spoon turmeric, 1 spoon chilli powder, 6 to 7 green chillies, ½ cup oil, salt.

Marinate everything in a saucepan half an hour. Set it covered in a wok of boiling water, weigh lid, turn fish after 10 minutes and cook 10 more.

6 pieces hilsa, 1 cup chopped onion, 1 tsp turmeric, 1 tsp chilli powder, ½ cup oil, salt, 4 green chillies.

Rest fish 10 minutes in turmeric, chilli and salt, put it into oil, add chillies.

1 medium or large hilsa, 2 tomatoes, 1 capsicum, 1 cup chopped onion, 1 tbsp each garlic and ginger paste, ½ tsp turmeric, 2 tsp chilli powder, 1 tsp each ground coriander and cumin, 3 each cardamoms and cloves, 1 bay leaf, ½ tsp black pepper, 5 tbsp soybean oil, ½ tsp nigella seed, salt, a pinch of sugar, 2 to 3 chopped green chillies, 2 cups water.

Cut, wash and drain fish; dry-roast chopped capsicum. In 4 tbsp oil fry onion, cardamom, cloves and bay leaf, then all spices but nigella; add tomato and capsicum and blend smooth. Temper nigella in remaining oil, cook paste, add water. At boil add fish and salt; dum over a griddle an hour; sprinkle sugar when thick.

8 pieces hilsa, ½ cup onion paste, 1 tsp turmeric, 1 tsp chilli powder, salt, 4 to 5 green chillies, 4 tbsp oil.

Mix fish with everything, add water for a thin gravy and cook; add slit chillies at end.

4 to 5 pieces hilsa, 5 to 6 green chillies, 2 tbsp mustard oil, ½ tsp turmeric, salt, 1 cup water.

Rest fish 10 minutes in salt and turmeric. Boil water with oil, chillies, salt and turmeric, add fish and cook 10 to 12 minutes on medium heat.

8 pieces hilsa, 7 to 8 water lily (shapla) stems, 2 tbsp onion paste, ½ tsp garlic paste, 1 or ½ tsp cumin paste, ½ tsp chilli powder, 5 to 6 slit green chillies, 1 tsp turmeric, salt, ½ cup oil.

Cut stems finger-length; salt and turmeric fish. Cook down spices, add ½ cup water; at boil add fish, turn once, lift out. Cover stems with a little salt in masala 6 to 7 minutes, adding water only if needed. Return fish when boiling, cover briefly, reduce to taste.

7 to 8 pieces hilsa, 4 long aubergines, 1 tsp turmeric, salt, 1 tsp chilli powder, 2 tbsp onion paste, 1 tsp garlic paste, 1 cup oil, 5 to 6 whole green chillies, 1 tbsp chopped coriander, ½ tsp roasted ground cumin.

Fry salted, turmericked aubergine; fry fish very lightly. In that oil cook down spices with ½ cup water added gradually; when oil rises add 2 cups water. At boil add fish and aubergine, cover; after 3 to 4 minutes shake pan, do not stir. Add chillies, cumin and coriander; finish when oil rises.

For the balls: 4 pieces hilsa, 2 roes, 2 tbsp each chopped coriander and mint, ½ tsp ground cumin, 2 tbsp chopped green chilli, 2 slices bread, 2 tbsp toast crumbs, oil and salt. For the masala: 1 tsp ginger paste, ½ tsp garlic paste, 2 tbsp onion paste, ½ tsp chilli powder, 1 cup milk, 2 tbsp fried onion, 4 to 5 green chillies, ¼ cup soybean oil, 2 tbsp yoghurt, ½ tsp sugar. For the polao: 2 cups polao rice, 1 cup coconut milk, the fish stock, 2 tbsp milk powder, ¼ cup ghee, 2 cardamoms, 2 cinnamon sticks, 1 tsp sugar, 1 tbsp raisins, salt.

Poach fish in 3 cups salted water, bone it, keep stock. Mix roe, fish, ball ingredients and soaked bread; roll small balls with crumbed hands and fry light brown. Cook polao with coconut milk and stock. Grind masala except milk, cook down, add milk, then balls at boil. When glossy, fold into polao with ghee; dum 10 minutes.

500 g hilsa, a few taro leaves, 1 cup yoghurt, 1 tsp each ginger and garlic paste, 2 tsp onion paste, ¼ cup fried onion, 1 tsp chilli powder, cream (malai), oil, a little ground cumin, ¼ cup milk powder, a little sugar, salt; ½ cup hot milk.

Coat fish in spices, wrap in lightly cooked taro leaves and fry gently. Cook down remaining spices, add ½ cup hot milk and parcels, cover on low heat 5 minutes, add cream and finish.

500 g hilsa, ½ tsp each ginger and garlic paste, 2 tsp mustard paste, ½ tsp ground cumin, ½ cup drained yoghurt, 4 tbsp mustard oil, ¼ cup sugar syrup, ¼ cup tamarind pulp, 1 tsp chilli powder, 2 to 3 green chillies, 1 banana leaf, salt.

Mix fish with ginger, garlic, mustard, cumin, yoghurt, salt, oil and chilli, then with tamarind and syrup. Cook on dum on a banana leaf in a frying pan, finishing with chillies, mustard oil and syrup.

4 pieces hilsa, 1 tsp ginger paste, ½ tsp garlic paste, 2 tsp onion paste, 1 malta for pulp, ½ cup soybean oil, ½ cup orange juice, 4 red and 4 green fresh chillies, a little salt.

Salt fish lightly. Cook pastes in oil with a splash of water, add malta pulp and juice, then orange juice and chillies. At boil coat fish, lay it in a tiffin box and bake in a double boiler 20 to 25 minutes.

Gourd, banana and taro leaves, water lily, aubergine, pumpkin, orange, malta: hilsa pairs with nearly everything, and eaten regularly this nutrient-rich fish supports a healthy life.

Photo: Hilsa, the national fish of Bangladesh, Biswarup Ganguly / Wikimedia Commons (CC BY-SA 3.0)