When the monsoon arrives, hilsa takes first place on the Bengali menu. Whether steamed (bhapa), in paturi, with mustard, in a curry or fried, the fish's own aroma and oil are its greatest attraction. Yet many complain that even fresh hilsa from the market does not taste as expected after cooking. Often the cause is not the spices but the wrong way of washing the fish.

According to cooking experts, keeping hilsa's flavour starts with care in washing it, because the natural oil, the fine layer of blood and the delicate texture of the fish are what set its taste apart from all others.

After cutting hilsa, many people leave it soaking in water for a while to clean it. This is one of the biggest mistakes. The longer it stays in water, the more of its natural oil, juices and flavour leach out, leaving the fish dry and bland after cooking. It is best to rinse it lightly and take it out as quickly as possible after cutting.

The light blood or slippery coating on hilsa is actually an important part of its natural taste and aroma, so there is no need to wash it repeatedly like other fish. Rinsing it gently once or twice in clean water is enough; washing too much can dull its flavour.

To remove the fishy smell of other fish, many wash them with lemon juice, vinegar or salt and turmeric. This should not be done with hilsa, as it destroys the fish's natural aroma, tenderness and the taste of its oil. Plain clean water is enough.

If too much water remains on the fish after washing, the spices and oil do not blend properly during cooking. The curry can turn watery, and fried fish does not get the right taste. So after washing, leave the fish in a colander or press it gently with a clean cotton cloth to remove excess water.

Many believe washing fish in ice-cold water keeps it fresher. For hilsa, this does not help: very cold water can firm up the flesh and reduce its natural tenderness after cooking. Clean water at normal temperature is the safest way to wash hilsa.

Following these small rules before cooking keeps much of the fish's natural oil, tenderness and aroma intact. Then even with mustard, green chillies or a few spices, the familiar traditional taste of hilsa from the Padma or Meghna comes through. The secret of delicious hilsa lies not only in the recipe but begins with washing the fish the right way.

The article cites India Today and India Food Network as sources.

Source: Jagonews24. First published in Bengali on The Agro News.